Wind River's Jackson Peak north face

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Wind River's Jackson Peak north face

Postby TomTuriano » Wed Sep 20, 2006 8:55 pm

Received this email from Tom Lachmar via J Pattyn regarding conditions on the north face of Jackson Peak in the Wind River Mountains:

"We successfully climbed the left ice coulior on the north face of Jackson the day after we met. The route conditions were quite a bit different than they were ten years ago in 1996. The glacier has thinned dramatically, forcing an unpleasant descent down loose rock and steep, polished slabs to get onto it from the notch between Jackson and Fremont. Also, the bergschrund was much bigger and more difficult to cross due to the glacial thinning. The coulior itself was largely water ice instead of frozen snow, and because of the warm conditions the ice was soft. Finally, the exit from the coulior was over steep, loose rock because the snowfield on the summit ridge has melted in places so that it's no longer continuous. All in all, I don't think I'd climb that route again, or recommend it to anyone either."

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